Thursday, November 19, 2009

Backcountry Insulation


The insulation layer (or midlayer) in the layering system provides warmth. This is perhaps the most versatile and wide ranging of the layers, and you can easily use 2 or 3 pieces in the insulation layer.

Insulation comes from tiny pockets that trap hot air. The more pockets with less weight provides more warmth for a pieces weight. That's where the different insulating materials come from: fleece, high-loft synthetics, and down.

Fleece is perhaps the most well known as outdoor technologies continue to make their way into everyday fashion. It dries quickly, insulates when wet, and is available in a multitude of weights ranging from very light fleece pullovers to heavy pile fleece behemoths. Fleece's main downside is that it doesn't compress well, which leads us to...

High-loft insulating pieces. High-lofts come in two distinct categories: synthetic and down. Down insulation is classic. It is rated by "fill-power," which is a numbered system to show how fine the down is. The higher the number, the more loft with less weight. This means more efficient insulation, better compression, and more comfort for you. In general, down is an excellent insulator, compresses well, and is extremely durable. A well cared for down jacket (or sleeping bag) can last a very long time, and loft can be restored by washing with specially created down wash. Down has one (major) shortfall: it clumps when wet, and clumped down does not insulate.

High-loft synthetics keep their loft when wet, thereby keeping their warmth when wet. There are several different kinds of synthetic insulations that differ on their warmth-to-weight ratio, compressibility, and durability. Primaloft has come to the forefront as possibly the closest to down. Synthetics are generally less expensive than down and can stay warm when wet (though it's still uncomfortable to be in a wet jacket), but it's hard to match high-quality down's insulating properties, compression, and durability.

So which one's right for you? Fleece is good in light layers, but heavyweight fleece is pretty useless in the backcountry. Save it for around town. Lightweight fleece can serve as a warmer base layer or a lightweight mid-layer, so it has versatility working for it. At midweight fleece and up, it can often be better to go with high-lofts to gain the superior warmth-to-weight and compressibility that they provide.

As far as down or synthetic goes, it really depends on what you're doing. If you're canoe camping, synthetic might be the wiser choice with the increased risk of getting your gear wet; if you're in more arid climates, down can be the way to go. An interesting strategy is to mismatch your sleeping bag. If you have a down bag, go with a synthetic jacket; synthetic bag, a down jacket. This way you can limit your risk should everything get soaked. Synthetics have come a long way, but 850+ fill down is an incredible insulator.

So come by one of our shops, or poke around online to see a good variety of insulation pieces. And please, don't ask us what temperature a jacket is rated to. It all depends on the person, the activity, and the weather. That's why there are so many to choose from.

See you in the shop!



Friday, November 13, 2009

Base Layers: An Introduction

Last week, I gave a brief overview of the layering philosophy. I want to focus on the Base Layer this week.

As I mentioned, the base layer serves several functions: moisture wicking, warmth, and sun protection. While all base layers should wick moisture well, they can still vary in their functionalities. Base layers come in different weights to better serve different functions. The heavier, thicker base layers are designed to provide more warmth while wicking moisture; the lighter, thinner base layers are designed for less warmth, but more wicking and to provide some sun protection. These are appropriate for warm weather, aerobic activites in full sun, like sea kayaking.

The functional ability is probably most affected by the material of the base layer pieces. Cotton is entirely inappropriate. Cotton does nothing with moisture; it absorbs it and holds it right where it is, leading to chilling in colder weather, and chafing if it remains wet while extended periods of activity.

The best materials for performance base layers are synthetics and merino wool. Synthetics pull moisture very well, are non-absorbent, and dry quickly. Since synthetic fibers are impermeable, the breathability is achieved by the weave of the fabric: a more open, knit weave will be more breathable, while a less open woven fabric is less breathable. One major downside with synthetics, however, is their love for stink. Most modern synthetic base layers have an anti-stink/anti-microbial additive to help manage the stink, but at some point, some day, you'll encounter a synthetic funk, which is more managed than cured.

While synthetic base layers pull moisture like it's their job (which it is), merino does one of two things with it. Merino has a temperature regulatory effect, achieved by how it manages moisture. If your micro-climate is cool, it will absorb the moisture into the fibers and release heat in the process. Don't worry, this isn't the same absorption as cotton, merino absorbs and pulls the moisture away from the skin. If your micro-climate is warm, it will move the moisture to the outside of the garment, allowing evaporative cooling. Merino fibers themselves breathe, so the breathability of a garment is not as affected by the weave of the fabric. The merino fiber also has a natural kink, allowing for more warm-air trapping space, making it warmer for its weight than synthetics. A big plus for merino is its natural anti-microbial character. It doesn't hold odor. You hold more odor than merino. Lastly, it is naturally flame-retardant; Smoky the Bear loves merino.

So, which one for you? Most of us at the shop prefer merino, finding that its increased functional capabilities relate directly to comfort. It is more expensive, and dries slower (though still retaining its insulating properties while wet). Synthetics wicks moisture just as well, if not better, but isn't as warm (and sometimes can wick moisture so quickly that it causes a chill). It is less expensive, though. So, if you're looking for pure wicking power: go synthetic. If you need moisture management and more warmth for its weight: go merino.

As far as the thickness, that depends on weather and activity. Colder vs. warmer weather; more vs. less high-output activity. Trial, use, and experimentation can guide your choices, and we can certainly help you make the best decision.

A quick note on merino: Many people have developed a mental aversion to wool. Merino is a much finer fiber than traditional wool (come into the shop, we have some cleaned merino to touch and feel), reducing irritation caused by the scales on the fiber. Most people don’t notice an itch at all.

With that introduction to base layers, check out Icebreaker for merino base layers, and Patagonia for synthetic base layers. If you have questions, we're happy to help. Give us a call or come by one of our shops.



Monday, November 09, 2009

New Store at The Avenue East Cobb

We are happy to announce the opening of our newest store at The Avenue East Cobb.

If you haven't stopped by while we were getting it ready, now's the time to come in and say hello.

High Country The Avenue
4475 Roswell Rd Suite 1120
Marietta, GA 30062

Phone:
770-321-4780

Hours:
Monday-Saturday 10am-9pm
Sunday 10am-6pm



Wednesday, November 04, 2009

Layers: Not Just for Parfaits, Onions, and Ogres

Layering is one of the most important clothing techniques for the outdoors, and one of the ideas I find myself explaining to customers most often.

The idea is simple: by using multiple layers of clothing, each serving a specific purpose, you can mix and match to suit current weather and activity conditions. This flexible adjustability means more comfort, and in some cases, more safety.

Layers are one of three types: base layer, insulation, or outerwear. The base layer is the first layer on, sits next to the skin, and its job is to pull moisture away from the body. The insulation layer provides warmth, and the outerwear layer provides weather protection.

Let's take a simple example to show how these layers can work together. Imagine you're backpacking, ascending the sunny side of a ridge. With the aerobic output and sunny weather you'll probably be in your base layers and a pair of shorts. Once you reach the top of the exposed ridge and stop for a break, you throw on your outerwear to block the wind. As you descend the shaded side of the ridge, a storm rolls in. You put on your insulating layer between the base layer and outerwear to keep warm in the shade and rain, and your outerwear keeps you dry. Once the rain stops, you remove the outerwear to increase the breathability, leaving you comfortably descending in your base layer and insulating layer.

Because each layering piece serves its own purpose, our example goes through four different temperature/activity situations by adjusting which layers are being worn. If the waterproof/windproof outerwear was also insulated, then you couldn't stay dry without also getting warmer, and you couldn't get warmer without also inhibiting breathability.

Maximum versatility with a minimum of material is the name of the layering game. The lack of versatility is why we typically don't recommend insulated hardshells (hardshell just means wind and waterproof) or 3-in-1 jackets (we understand that 3-in-1 jacket liners are removable, thus providing the specificity sought after, but you can often achieve higher quality products by choosing your own shell and your own insulating pieces) except in very specific uses.

We'll be examining each piece of the layering system in the coming weeks, so be sure to check back. If you have any initial questions about layering, or getting your own backcountry layering system together, just give us a call or stop by the shop. You can check out base layers here (men's, women's) and outerwear and insulating layers here (men's, women's).