Cumberland Island: An Ode to the Dramatic

After as many shrimp and cocktails as anyone cared to consume, we traded revelry for a sound night of sleep and one last warm shower at the historic River View Inn. On Friday morning our group of ten kayakers, two guides, and one culinary mastermind began making preparations for the eight-mile paddle over to Cumberland Island. We were an invincible combination. With the group gear, consisting of three guitars, a flood of booze, several tents, a propane tank, stove, and two coolers safely on the island, our boats loaded and lunch packed, we set out on the smooth waters of the St. Mary's River. For all of their absurd indulgences, the rich, who inhabited this island, took great pride in the preservation of the seventeen miles of undeveloped beach front, leaving it as a truly refreshing glimpse of the Georgia coast as it might have been in another time. After arriving on the south end of Cumberland Island, we made our way to sea-camp, our home for the remainder of the weekend.

Saturday brought another cool day of near perfect temperatures and ideal conditions for a bike ride to cover some of the island. So we took off through the deep sands of the Main Road on beach cruisers, after pancakes and coffee. We went on to tour the Carnegie Mansions, a tribute to a time when wealth outweighed sense, reminding us of a way of life that induces thoughts of The Great Gatsby. With everyone back at camp, rejuvenated by drinks, the beach, and showers, we somehow managed to talk ourselves back onto the bikes for a trip to the Dungenesse ruins at the south end of the island. As the sun went down we explored the charred remains of the main house on Cumberland and its many amenities. During that time the first ever Great Armadillo Round Up was conducted with great success. That night was another of revelry and song, as we indulged in the delights of another tasty low country broil and smores.

The next day we began our journey back to the mainland and Atlanta. After bribing the ferry boat captain into unloading our group gear we were off. As we headed down the inland part of the island the weather and water had again aligned itself in our favor and we were met with calm conditions and sunny skies. Wild horses ran on the shore while a group of dolphins played just in front of the bow of our boats. The paddle back was one of determined spirit as the tide had finally agreed with us, pushing our convoy up the St. Mary's River and back to the mainland.

Cumberland is certainly a special place. One that invokes images of the grandiose aristocratic life of another time coupled with the unabated splendor of unspoiled nature.